Cosmetics and Dermatological Problems and Solutions A Problem Based Approach 3rd Edition by Zoe Diana Draelos 1841847410 9781841847412

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ISBN 10: 1841847410 

ISBN 13: 9781841847412

Author: Zoe Diana Draelos

Cosmetics for skin, hair, and nails play a vital part in the management and treatment of many dermatological conditions; unfortunately, they may also at times be the cause of some dermatological problems. They are therefore subjects where dermatologists need to be aware of the major commercial developments taking place, in addition to the many common Over The Counter products already available, in order to be vigilant in checking the possible benefits or disadvantages for patients. This text takes a serious look at the integration of skin care products, cosmetics, hair adornments, and nail cosmetics in the daily practice of dermatology, expanding the realm of disease treatment beyond diagnosis and treatment into the maintenance phase of healthy skin, hair, and nails.

Table of contents:

1 Facial cosmetic dermatology: Introduction
Skin Physiology
Skin Structure
Stratum Corneum
References

1 Acne and cosmetics
Otc Drug Acne Therapies
Benzoyl Peroxide
Salicylic Acid
Sulfur
Cosmetic Acne Therapies
Hydroxy Acids
Triclosan
OTC Retinoids
Tea Tree Oil
Miscellaneous Acne Ingredients
Skin Care in Acne Patients
Cleansers
Astringents and Exfoliants
Epidermabrasion and Textured Cloths
Mechanized Skin Care Devices
Face Masks
Comedogenicity and Skin Care Formulations
Acnegenicity and Skin Care Formulations
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

2 Rosacea and cosmetics
Testing of Facial Products In Rosacea Patients
Facial Cleansers
Oily Skin
Normal Skin
Dry and/or Sensitive Skin
Cosmetic Removal
Cleansing Devices
Problematic Cleansers and Cleansing Implements
Facial Moisturizers
Facial Cosmeceuticals
Ginkgo Biloba
Green Tea
Aloe Vera
Allantoin
Licochalcone A
Facial Camouflage Cosmetics
Troubleshooting Facial Cosmetics and Skin Care in Rosacea Patients
Summary
References

3 Facial moisturizers and eczema
Physiology of Xerosis
Mechanisms of Moisturization
Occlusives
Humectants
Hydrophilic Matrices
Sunscreens
Mechanisms of Emollience
Facial Moisturizer Formulation
Facial Moisturizer Efficacy Evaluation
FACIAL moisturizer: adverse reactions
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

4 Sensitive skin and contact dermatitis
Visible Sensitive Facial Skin
Eczema
Atopic Dermatitis
Rosacea
Invisible Sensitive Skin
Sensitive Facial Skin Product Guidelines
Contact Dermatitis
Irritant Contact Dermatitis
Allergic Contact Dermatitis
Contact Urticaria
Phototoxic and Photoallergic Dermatitis
Patch Testing
Additional Sensitivity Testing
Draize Test
Repeat Insult Patch Test
Cumulative Irritancy Test
Eye Irritancy Test
Photopatch Testing
Cutaneous Stinging
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

5 Aging skin and cosmeceuticals
Aging Skin
Aging and Hormones
Development of Cosmeceuticals
Cosmeceutical Overview
Carotenoids
Astaxanthin
Lutein
Lycopene
Flavonoids
Curcumin
Silymarin
PycnogenoI
Polyphenols
Pomegranate
Retinoids
Hydroxy Acids
Skin Care in Mature Patients
Color Cosmetics
Face Masks
Wax Masks
Vinyl- and Rubber-Based Masks
Hydrocolloid Masks
Earth-Based Masks
Exfoliants
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

6 Facial scarring and camouflaging
Camouflaging of Facial Defects
Facial Scar Recontouring
Camouflaging of Pigmentation Defects
Camouflage Cosmetics
Application of Camouflage Cosmetics
Body Camouflaging
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

7 Ethnic skin and pigmentation
Melanin and Skin Color
Skin Lightening
Hydroquinone
Ascorbic Acid
Licorice Extract
Alpha Lipoic Acid
Kojic Acid
Aleosin
Arbutin
Ethnic Cosmetics for Skin of Color
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

8 Male skin care
Male VS. Female Skin
Male Skin and Adverse Reactions
Hormonal Considerations in Male Skin Care
Male Skin and Hair Removal
Pigmentation Issues
Moisturizers
Photoprotection
Summary

9 Facial photoprotection
Sunscreen Filter Classification
Uva Organic Sunscreen Filters
Benzophenones
Avobenzone
Anthranilates
PABA Derivatives
Salicylates
Cinnamates
UVA / UVB Inorganic Sunscreen Filters
Nanoparticle Sunscreens
SUnscreen Formulation
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

10 Lip cosmetic considerations
Lipstick Formulation
Long Wearing Lipsticks
Lip Balms
Lip Sealants
Lip Gloss
Polymer Film Lipsticks
Lip Liners
Opaque Lipsticks
Tooth Whitening Lipsticks
Lip Cosmetics and Allergic Contact Dermatitis
Lip Tattooing
Lip Cosmetics for Acne Patients
Lip Cosmetics for Mature Patients
Corrective Lip Cosmetics
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

11 Eyes
Eyelid Considerations
Eye Shadows
Eye Shadow Setting Creams
Eyelid Cosmetic Removers
Eyelid Contact Dermatitis
Eyelid Cosmetics for Special Populations
Eyelid Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin Patients and Contact Lens Wearers
Eyelid Cosmetics for Acne Patients
Eyelid Cosmetics for Mature Patients
Eye Cosmetic Camouflage Techniques
Eyelash Cosmetics
Cake Mascara
Cream Mascara
Liquid Mascara
Water-based Mascaras
Solvent-based Mascara
Water/Solvent Hybrid Mascaras
Eyelash Cosmetic Safety Issues
Eyeliner
Eyeliner Tattooing
Eyelash Dyes
Artificial Eyelashes
Eyelash Cosmetics for Special Needs
Eyelash Cosmetics for Sensitive Patients and/or Contact Lens Wearers
Eyelash Cosmetics for Acne and/or Oily-Complected Patients
Eyelash Cosmetics for Mature Patients
Corrective Eyelash Cosmetics
Eyebrow Cosmetics
Eyebrow Pencil
Eyebrow Sealer
Eyebrow Dye
Artificial Eyebrows
Eyebrow Tattooing
Corrective Eyebrow Cosmetics
References
Suggested Reading

12 Postsurgical cosmetics
Wound Healing and Cosmetics
Color Cosmetic Selection
Facial Foundations
Undercover Foundations
Powders and Blushes
Eye Cosmetics
Lip Cosmetics
Removal of Cosmetics
References
Suggested Reading

13 Facial adornment
Facial Powders
Facial Blushes
Facial Bronzing Gels
Facial Buffers and Highlighters
Facial Cover Sticks
Facial Undercover Creams
Bronzing Powders and Tinted Moisturizers
Facial Cosmetics for Acne Patients
Facial Cosmetics for Mature Patients
Facial Cosmetics for Men
Facial Cosmetics for Children
Corrective Facial Cosmetics
Advising The Patient On Cosmetic Selection
References
Suggested Reading

14 Troubleshooting problematic ingredients
Preservatives
Color Additives
Biologic Additives
Collagen
Elastin
Hyaluronic Acid
Keratin
Placenta
Amniotic Fluid
Egg Extract
Blood Derivatives
Herbal Additives
Vitamin Additives
Liposomes and Niosomes
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

Facial cosmetic dermatology: Summary

Part II: Cosmetics in dermatology of the body

15 Hand cosmetic dermatology
Anatomy and Physiology of the Hand
Cleansing
Moisturization
Hand Cosmetic Safety
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

16 Foot cosmetic dermatology
Physiology of the Foot
Cleansing
Exfoliation
Moisturization
Cosmetics for Common Foot Problems
References
Suggested Reading

17 Axillary cosmetic dermatology
Axillary Skin Physiology
Axillary Skin Care
Deodorants and Antiperspirants
Deodorant Safety
Axillary Hyperhidrosis
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

18 Nail cosmetic dermatology
Nail Structure and Physiology
Nail Polish
Nail Hardeners
Nail Polish Removers
Artificial Nails
Nail Wraps
Nail Tips
Sculptured Nails
Press-on Nails
Nail Gels
Nail Jewelry
Nail Cosmetics and Adverse Reactions
Nail Cosmetics and Special Populations
Cosmetic Management of Nail Disorders
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

19 Cosmetic removal of hair
Hair Cycle
Methods of Hair Removal
Depilation
Shaving
Chemical Depilatories
Epilation
Tweezing
Threading
Waxing
Sugaring
Mechanical Epilation
Electrolysis
Laser Hair Removal
Laser Hair Removal Devices
Laser Safety
Laser Hair Removal Side Effects
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

20 Body photoprotection
Anatomy of Sunscreen Products
Sunscreen Filters
UVA Organic Sunscreen Filters
Benzophenones
Avobenzone
Anthranilates
PABA Derivatives
Salicylates
Cinnamates
UVA/UVB Inorganic Sunscreen Filters
Zinc Oxide
Titanium Dioxide
Sunscreen Vehicles
Sunscreen Formulation
Sunscreen Vehicles and Skin Type
Sunscreen Application
Sunscreen Safety
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

21 Body cosmeceuticals
Common Cosmeceutical Ingredients
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Beta Hydroxy Acids
Retinoids
Skin Lighteners
Antioxidants
Botanicals
Peptides
Growth Factors
Cosmeceutical Formulations
Cleansers
Moisturizers
Exfoliants
Serums
Body Lotions and Creams
Special Populations
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

22 Hair cosmetics
Hair Shaft Structure
Shampoos
Shampoo Formulation
Surfactants
Additives
Medicated Shampoos
Conditioners
Types of Conditioners
Conditioner Ingredients
Hair Styling Products
Hair Coloring Products
Permanent Hair Colors
Temporary Hair Colors
Semi-permanent Hair Colors
Bleaching Agents
Hair Relaxers
Curling Products
Hair Cosmetics and Adverse Effects
Hair Cosmetics for Special Populations
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

23 Pediatric cosmetic dermatology
Cleansers
Moisturizers
Photoprotection
Hair Care
Nail Care
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

Part III: Cosmetic procedures in dermatology

24 Chemical peels
Overview
Indications
Classification by Depth
Chemical Peeling Agents
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)
Jessner’s Solution
Phenol
Chemical Peel Techniques
Pre- and Post-Peel Care
Complications
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

25 Botulinum toxin
Mechanism of Action
Indications in Dermatology
Types of Botulinum Toxin
Injection Techniques
Dosing and Injection Sites
Side Effects and Complications
Contraindications
Patient Selection
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

26 Soft tissue augmentation
Overview of Dermal Fillers
Types of Fillers
Hyaluronic Acid
Calcium Hydroxylapatite
Poly-L-lactic Acid
Polymethylmethacrylate
Autologous Fat
Injection Techniques
Treatment Areas
Complications
Patient Assessment and Selection
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

27 Lasers and light devices
Principles of Laser Physics
Types of Lasers in Dermatology
Ablative vs. Non-ablative Lasers
Pulsed Dye Laser
Q-switched Lasers
Fractional Lasers
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)
Laser Safety and Precautions
Treatment Indications
Complications
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

28 Microneedling and other energy-based devices
Microneedling Devices
Mechanism of Action
Indications
Combination Therapy
Radiofrequency Microneedling
Other Energy-based Devices
Ultrasound
Plasma
Cryolipolysis
High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU)
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

29 Thread lifting
Introduction to Thread Lifts
Types of Threads
Barbed vs. Smooth Threads
Absorbable vs. Non-absorbable
Procedure Technique
Indications
Results and Longevity
Complications
Aftercare
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

30 Platelet-rich plasma and regenerative therapies
Platelet-rich Plasma (PRP)
Mechanism of Action
Preparation Methods
Indications in Cosmetic Dermatology
Injection Techniques
Combination with Other Procedures
Stem Cell Therapies
Exosome Therapy
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

31 Cosmetic procedures for skin of color
Special Considerations
Pigmentary Disorders
Acne and PIH
Keloids and Scarring
Laser and Light Therapies in Skin of Color
Safe Chemical Peels
Botulinum Toxin and Fillers in Skin of Color
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

Part IV: Special topics in cosmetic dermatology

32 Cosmetic dermatology in ethnic skin
Definition and Scope
Common Conditions
Cultural and Genetic Differences
Approach to Treatment
Lasers and Light in Ethnic Skin
Chemical Peels and Safety
Patient Education
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

33 Gender and cosmetic dermatology
Differences in Skin and Aging Patterns
Cosmetic Preferences in Men vs. Women
Gender-diverse Patients and Aesthetic Needs
Tailoring Treatments
Communication and Consent
Ethical Considerations
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

34 Pediatric cosmetic dermatology
Indications in Children
Common Pediatric Cosmetic Conditions
Treatment Approaches
Ethical and Psychological Aspects
Parental Consent
Safety and Long-Term Outcomes
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

35 Pregnancy and cosmetic dermatology
Physiologic Changes in Pregnancy
Skin Changes and Common Complaints
Safe Treatments During Pregnancy
Contraindications and Cautions
Cosmetic Procedures to Avoid
Lactation Considerations
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

36 Psychological aspects of cosmetic dermatology
Body Image and Self-esteem
Body Dysmorphic Disorder
Screening Tools
Psychological Evaluation
Patient Communication
Managing Expectations
Referral to Mental Health Professionals
Summary
References
Suggested Reading

37 Ethical and medicolegal aspects of cosmetic dermatology
Informed Consent
Documentation and Photography
Scope of Practice
Off-label Use
Complication

38 Damaged hair issues
Hair Manipulation
Hair Comb Selection
Hair Styling
Hair Grooming
Hair Drying
Scalp Scratching
Shampoo Selection
Conditioner Selection
Deep Conditioners
Hair Trimming
Summary
Suggested Reading
IV Nail: Introduction
39 Aproblem-oriented approach to fingernail issues
Nail Discoloration
Nail Polish
Nail Polish Camouflaging Technique
Nail Polish Staining
French Manicure Camouflage
Nail Bleach
Nail Ridging
Nail Splitting
Repairing Split Nails
Nail Peeling
Onycholysis
Preformed Nail Prostheses
Custom Nail Prostheses
Nail Sculptures with Preformed Tips
Photo-Induced Onycholysis
Allergic Contact Dermatitis
Cuticle Problems
Ingrown Fingernails
Summary
References
Suggested Reading
40 Understanding and treating brittle nails
Nail Physiology
Preventing Brittle Nails
Strengthening Brittle Nails
Diet and Brittle Nails
Nail Moisturization
Summary
Suggested Reading
41 Cosmetics in nail disease
Psoriatic Nails
Mycotic Nails
Nail Dystrophy
Median Canal Dystrophy and Habit Tic Deformity
Summary
References
Suggested Reading
42 Children and nail cosmetic issues
Soft Nails
Nails and Finger Sucking
Nail Trimming
Summary
43 Toenails and cosmetic issues
Toenail Dystrophy
Fungal Infection
Ingrown Toenails
Cosmetic Issues
Summary
References
Summary
Understand the Purchasing Habits of Your Patient
Identify the Patient S Unique Skin Needs
Take A Product use History
Evaluate Skin Care Needs in Light of the Presence of Dermatologic Disease
Develop an Algorithmic Approach to Skin Care for the Patient
Update Personal and Patient Database, as Needed

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